Carefree in the Catskills.

This past March, I celebrated the 8 year anniversary of running The Open Road Ahead. In this blog, I’ve shared climbs up mountains, walks on the beach, strolls through museums, visits to historic ships, meals at great restaurants, close-up experiences with wildlife, and numerous roadside attractions. However, the best part of these posts has been the people I have met, and the adventures I’ve shared with others.

From chronicling a friend’s journey to a million miles to sharing stories about the vehicles of family and friends, cars have played a large role in this blog. So when a friend drew up plans for a roadtrip to the Catskills and the Capital Region of New York to celebrate her Honda Accord rolling 100,000 miles, you better believe my wife and I accepted an invitation to come along on this epic journey!

Join us, then, as we drive to northern New York. Along the way we’ll see one of the earliest iron foundries in this country, see a couple of roadside oddities, witness an amazing waterfall, climb to the top of a fire tower (gulp), cross a bridge almost 150 feet over the Hudson River (double gulp), tour a historic warship, and eat some amazing food.

Let’s begin:

The Catskill Adventure

Friday

Map of New Jersey and New York, with blue line running from New Brunswick, NJ to the USS Slater in Albany, with numerous stops in between.
Our weekend’s adventure: nearly 500 miles of driving in the span of 48 hours. Let’s go!
View of road with rocky hillside on right side. One SUV is ahead on road.
We departed on Friday afternoon, heading northward. Near the New Jersey-New York border, my wife had me detour off the highway and head to a historic state park. County Highway 511, which snaked through the rocky hillsides of northern New Jersey, was an excellent preview of some of the exhilarating drives I’d take this weekend: full of curves and high speed limits!
View of Monksville Reservoir and dam.
We made a quick pitstop to check out the Monksville Reservoir. Created in the late 1980s when the Wanaque River was dammed, Monksville holds seven billion gallons of water. I got to drive across the reservoir – it was a dam good time! (See what I did there?)
2020 Acura TLX parked in front of Monksville Reservoir.
The reservoir was created to help alleviate chronic droughts that New Jersey was experiencing. In addition to being an important source of water for New Jersey residents, the reservoir is also used for water sports and fishing (via Wikipedia).
2020 Acura TLX parked in front of museum building of Long Pond Ironworks State Park.
Our destination was Long Pond Ironworks State Park. Once an active ironmaking community, the forges of Long Pond once produced metal to support the Revolutionary War, the War of 1812, and the Civil War. The site has been a state park since the 1970s (via Wikipedia).
Ore cart with miner's picks in cart.
A small museum is located at the entrance to the park. The displays focus on the history of iron working in New Jersey. Long Pond is open daily from sunrise to sunset, although the museum is open from April through November on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday from 9:30 am – 4:30 pm.
Two buildings, both painted white, on village green.
Long Pond was once a bustling community, home to over 500 workers and their families. The ironworks closed in 1882, and several buildings of the village remain standing (via Friends of Long Pond Ironworks).
Hiking trail through woods.
The park features overall well-maintained trails. It was a bit buggy, and the museum staff member said to be careful of ticks, so bug spray is key (as is checking yourself for bugs when you’re finished).
Ruins of ice house in forest.
While some of the buildings remain standing, others have collapsed and are preserved in their ruined condition. This was once the ice house.
Ruins of Colonial Era furnace.
This is the remains of the Colonial-era furnace, which provided iron to support American efforts in the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. The furnace was excavated several years ago, but unfortunately collapsed. According to the museum guide, the plan is to restore the furnace.
Ruins of Civil War-era furnace.
The much larger furnace from the Civil War also lays in ruins. Owing to the 120 years of iron production and its importance to the early United States, Long Pond is a National Historic Landmark.
Wooden bridge over river.
The park continues deeper into the woods, via this footbridge over the Wanaque River. The original footbridge washed away during Hurricane Irene in 2011 – this is its more recent replacement. After an enjoyable hike, we got back in the TLX and (after conducting a quick tick check) continued northward.
Bird's eye view of Water Street Market.
About an hour later, we arrived in the town of New Paltz, NY, where we would be getting dinner at the Water Street Market.
View of menu at The Parish Restaurant and Bar, with high top table and bar in background.
Our destination was The Parish, a New Orleans-style restaurant and bar. The ambience was fantastic – I really felt like I was back in Louisiana.
Plate with buffalo cauliflower topped with crumbled cheese. A small dish of ranch dressing sits beside it.
We started our meal with the Buffalo Cauliflower. Prepared gluten-free, the cauliflower florets are coated in Buffalo sauce and are served with bleu cheese crumbles and ranch dressing. It hit the spot!
White plate with blackened catfish, grits, and collared greens.
I ordered the jambalaya, which was tasty, but my wife’s dish stole the show: blackened catfish, served with stone-ground grits and collared greens. After enjoying our dinner, it was time to continue our way northward. As we got into the car, my wife turned to me and asked, “Want to make a detour to the world’s largest garden gnome?”
Town welcome sign that says ACCORD - TOWN OF ROCHESTER EST 1703, with 2020 Acura TLX in background.
On our way to find the gnome, we stumbled upon the town of… ACCORD! As a Honda fan, this put a smile on my face. If only I still had my 2012 Accord coupe for this photo!
Large garden gnome in farm field.
Meet Gnome Chomsky! Located on the property of Kelder’s Farm in Kerhonkson, NY, this was the “World’s Largest Garden Gnome” when it was unveiled in 2007. Since then, two other, larger gnomes have relegated Gnome Chomsky to third place. It’s now called “The Original World’s Largest Garden Gnome” (via Roadside America).
2020 Acura TLX on grassy field, with large garden gnome in background.
First place? Third place? No matter – it’s still worth a glamour shot with the TLX!
View of Mid-Hudson Bridge at sunset.
As the sun began to set, we crossed the Mid-Hudson Bridge into the city of Poughkeepsie, where we would be spending the night at a nearby hotel. We got to bed early – the next day promised to be action-packed!

Saturday

View of Route 23A in Catskill Mountains.
On Saturday morning, we headed to our first destination: Kaaterskill Falls, a waterfall in the Catskill Mountains. The drive on Route 23A was an absolute blast, too!
South Lake in Kaaterskill Falls state park.
My wife and I arrived at the park first, so we chilled out beside South Lake while we waited for our friends to arrive.
Trail through woods.
After fighting through traffic (the park was very busy!), Ash and her boyfriend arrived and were able to snag a parking spot nearby. We all set off toward Kaaterskill Falls. I was impressed by the well-maintained and clearly marked trails.
Footbridge on Kaaterskill Falls trail. People are at far end of footbridge.
It was a beautiful day for a hike!
View of Kaaterskill Falls.
After a 20-minute hike, we arrived at a viewing platform, and promptly had our breath taken away by Kaaterskill Falls.
Photo of Kaaterskill Falls.
At 260 feet, Kaaterskill Falls is one of the tallest waterfalls on the East Coast. The falls were a popular subject of the Hudson River School, a group of 19th century American landscape painters (via Wikipedia). After taking in the view, we headed back to our cars… time to get moving!
Exterior of Last Chance Antiques & Cheese Restaurant.
On the way to our next destination, we made a quick stop to grab lunch at the Last Chance Antiques & Cheese Restaurant in Tannersville.
Cash register and cheese counter in restaurant.
Last Chance has been serving hungry customers since 1971. I ordered a chicken caesar wrap, while my wife got a Greek salad with chicken. We got our orders to go, as we had another destination waiting for us!
View of State Highway 241 in the Catskills. Mountains are visible in the distance.
As we traveled to our next destination, we took one of the best driving roads I have ever experienced – State Highway 214. With curves aplenty, blind crests, hairpin turns, mountain views, and generous speed limits, it was a driver’s dream. The TLX got quite the workout!
Catskills Visitor Center.
Our next meetup point was the Catskills Visitor Center in Shandaken. Like the Adirondacks, the Catskills are a protected wilderness area, kept “forever wild.”
Mount Esopus Fire Tower.
A short distance from the Visitor Center is the Upper Esopus Fire Tower. Twenty three fire towers were built in the early 20th century to monitor the region for wildfires. Six fire towers still exist and are open to the public.
View of landscape surrounding fire tower, with open window of fire tower cupola in foreground.
Battling my fear of heights, I climbed the 80′ fire tower to the top. Even with my clammy hands and racing pulse, I had to admit the view was spectacular.
View of ground surrounding fire tower.
Don’t look down… don’t look down… don’t look down… gulp.
View of landscape surrounding fire tower, including Mount Tremper.
In the distance is Mount Tremper, a 2,740-foot peak. Another fire tower sits atop of Tremper. Climb all six towers within one calendar year to complete the Catskills Fire Tower Challenge.
Almost empty cup with iced tea and open soda can on picnic table.
After the climb, my wife and I devoured our lunches. This is where a photo of our food should be… we may have been too busy eating to remember to take a picture.
Barn silo on side of building, with words EMERSON RESORT & SPA on sides.
On the drive to the Visitor Center, we passed signs for the World’s Largest Kaleidoscope. Never one to miss a roadside attraction, my wife and I decided to take a look. Ash and her boyfriend joined us for a quick detour to Emerson Resort & Spa. Once a farm, the grounds have been transformed into a shopping area, spa, and conference center. The grain silo now houses a working kaleidoscope, dubbed by the Guinness Book of World Records as the “World’s Largest Kaleidoscope.”
Small kaleidoscope in jewelry box.
We ended up having to wait a half hour for the next kaleidoscope showing, so we ambled through the shopping center. A small display of kaleidoscopes included this item, which claimed to be the “world’s smallest kaleidoscope.”
View of kaleidoscope looking upward.
When it was time for our show, we were led into a small theater space at the base of the silo. Looking upward, we watched a ten minute visual art display, set to music. It was… ok. On the plus side, at only $5 per person, it was cheap entertainment. On the other hand, the show tried to tell a story that may have been too ambitious for the realities of what a kaleidoscope can (or can’t) do. File this one into the category of “things the Open Road Ahead staff does so that you don’t have to.”
2020 Acura TLX and 2010 Honda Accord sedan in gravel parking lot.
After the show, I snagged a couple photos of my TLX sitting beside Cinnamon, Ash’s Honda Accord.
Car odometer reading 100286 miles.
Ash also let me fire up the Accord and take a photo of the odometer – congrats on the 100,000 mile achievement, Ash! Based on my experience with my 2012 Accord, I know Ash’s car has many, many more miles left to go!
View of Rip Van Winkle Bridge.
Our next destination would be another adventure to test my fear of heights: The Hudson River Skywalk on the Rip Van Winkle Bridge. Longtime readers might remember my last weak-kneed stroll across this bridge.
View from Hudson River Skywalk.
I have to admit: the view from 145-feet above the river was simply spectacular, and well worth the walk.
Exterior of Olana State Historic Site.
We then headed across the river to Olana State Historic Site. The home of 19th century painter Frederic Church, Olana incorporates architectural designs that Church and his wife observed while traveling through the Middle East. Longtime readers might also remember my previous visit to Olana a few years ago.
Ornate pillars with Lebanese-inspired designs.
The strong Middle Eastern-inspired design cues never cease to captivate me.
View of Hudson River and Catskills mountains.
The view from the porch of Olana is equally captivating. Imagine having this as the view from your front door! After enjoying the vista, my wife and I said goodbye to Ash and her boyfriend, and we headed to dinner in Albany, while they drove back to the Catskills for a unique dining location.
Menu of Salsa Latina restaurant on wooden table.
We drove to Salsa Latina, a Mexican restaurant we discovered during a previous trip to the Albany Region.
Taco salad on white plate, sitting on wooden table.
My taco salad was tasty and refreshing.
Carnitas tacos on white plate.
My wife’s order of carnitas tacos, however, was the star of the meal! After a long day of exploration, we got back in the car and headed to our hotel. Meanwhile, Ash and her boyfriend attempted to try out the Cheez-In Diner, a pop-up restaurant in Woodstock serving meals made solely with Cheez-It crackers. For instance, the Extra Cheezburger is served with a topping of large Cheez-It crackers, the Cheez-It Fries are French fries tossed in ground Cheez-It crackers, and the Cheez-It Milkshake is made with vanilla ice cream, chocolate ice cream and… you guessed it… ground Cheez-It crackers. Owing to the demand, there was a four hour wait to be seated, so Ash and her boyfriend ended up finding another restaurant nearby.
Exterior of Holiday Inn Express & Suites hotel.
We settled in for the night at the Holiday Inn Express near the Albany airport. It was a safe, clean, affordable option, and offered a free breakfast with gluten-free options!

Sunday

2010 Honda Accord and 2020 Acura TLX parked in front of USS Slater destroyer escort.
The next morning we met up for our last group activity of the weekend: a tour of the USS Slater, a retired World War II-era US Navy warship that is now a museum ship in Albany.
Front of USS Slater destroyer escort. The ship is painted in dazzle camouflage.
The Slater was a destroyer escort, built in response to Nazi German U-Boats (submarines) that took a frighteningly high toll on Allied supply convoys between America and Europe. During her career, Slater escorted five convoys between America and Europe, protecting supplies vital to the American war effort (via Wikipedia). The ship is open for tours Wednesday through Sunday from 10:00 am – 4:00 pm. We pre-purchased our tickets ($12 per adult), and given how busy the ship was, I would highly recommend doing this if you intend to take a tour.
Galley of USS Slater, with large soup pots on side of room and large sink on other.
A well-fed sailor is a happy sailor. We began our tour in the galley of the Slater. This small space was responsible for feeding the ship’s 216 crew and officers.
Potato peeling machine.
While TV and movies about World War II might show an unlucky sailor forced to peel potatoes by hand, the reality is that the US military looks for ways to make tasks more efficient. This device is a 1940s automatic potato peeler, which uses a combination of water and abrasive surfaces to peel potatoes in large quantities.
Lifejacket with Slater E stenciled on back.
Throughout the ship are lifejackets, stenciled with the names of sailors who served about the ship. The USS Slater is named for Frank Slater, an enlisted man who died in combat while at his station during the battle of Guadalcanal. Frank’s brother Elam served aboard the Slater for the entirety of the war.
Table in officers mess set for meal.
Near the galley is the officers’ mess, where the leaders of the ship took their meals. In combat, however, this table could also serve as an emergency surgical station to treat wounded sailors. No space on a ship is wasted!
Crews mess and bunks.
Beside the crew’s mess is the enlisted sailors’ quarters. Unlike WWII-era submarines where you would share your bunk with 1-2 other sailors, if you served on the Slater, you got your own bunk and your own storage locker. Cool fact: the straps on each bunk are monogrammed with the names of Slater museum volunteers who have passed away. 
Radio room of ship.
The radio room is filled with 1940s-era equipment, and is fully functional. Due to the countless hours and efforts of volunteers who keep the ship in tip-top condition, the room can still transmit and receive a variety of radio communications.
Bridge of ship.
The Slater is one of the best maintained museum ships I have ever toured, a testament to the army of volunteers who spend hours upon hours ensuring that the ship remains a safe, clean, informative place for visitors. The ship’s wheel on the bridge was polished so well it could have been a mirror!
Crew's lavatories.
The tour of the crew’s head was fascinating. 150 enlisted sailors shared the aft crew’s head. The showers were equally interesting: a sailor would enter the shower, stand in ten seconds of water, lather up, have 30 seconds to rinse off, and then leave the shower for the next sailor. It’s unsurprising, then, that when the ship was in warmer climates, rain showers meant that most sailors would head topside with a bar of soap…
Chief engineers station.
This small office was for the chief engineer, who was responsible for the maintenance and repair of the ship. The filing cabinets are filled with blueprints and plans for almost every part aboard the vessel.
Forward gun mount.
The Slater is, ultimately, a weapon of war, and its armament was impressive for its small size. The forward 3″ gun could attack both enemy ships and aircraft, and could fire at targets up to 2 miles away. Unlike larger naval guns, however, there was no protection for the crew members manning the weapon. The gunner sat in the open air on the small seat and wore no protection for his ears. A dangerous job.
Hedgehog rounds in launcher.
The Slater’s primary role, however, was finding and sinking enemy submarines. One of the ship’s tools was the Hedgehog. These underwater grenades could be flung ahead of the ship to attack submarines lurking beneath the waves.
Depth charge aboard USS Slater.
The primary weapon of the Slater in fighting enemy submarines was the depth charge. A World War I-era invention, this underwater bomb would sink to a preset level and then explode. This was the last stop on the excellent tour that Andrew L., our guide, gave us. If you’re in the Albany area, I would highly recommend a visit to the Slater. Returning to our cars, my wife and I said goodbye to Ash and her boyfriend, and began our journey home.
2020 Acura TLX parked in front of Copper Crow restaurant. The building is covered in drawings of crows.
Before getting back on the highway, we traveled across town to grab a quick lunch at The Copper Crow. I love the artwork on the side of the building!
Green salad in white bowl.
Opening in 2021, The Copper Crow is a bar and restaurant in the warehouse district of Albany. We started our meal with the “Basic Green Salad” (their name, not mine). They should call it the “Basic, Green, Fresh, and Delicious Salad.” It was excellent!
Calamari on plate on wooden table.
My wife had an order of the gluten-free calamari for lunch (and yes, she was kind enough to share).
Chicken sandwich and fingerling potatoes on white plate on wooden table.
I ordered the Kung Pao Chicken Sandwich, and it is no exaggeration to say that it was one of the best chicken sandwiches I have ever eaten. The fingerling potatoes were excellent as well. After a lovely meal, we got back in the TLX and began our drive home.
Sign on I-87 for exit to South 17 or South 287, and Welcome to New Jersey.
The benefit of traveling on the Sunday of Memorial Day weekend: we encountered almost no traffic, positively breezing back to New Jersey.
Car odometer reading 36888 miles and average fuel A 31.9 mpg
About three hours after leaving Albany, we were home! I continue to be impressed with the Acura TLX. It’s a comfortable, safe, sporty ride, and despite a V6 engine and a heavy all-wheel drive system, it returns excellent fuel economy (even after some enthusiastic blasts around the back roads of the Catskills). 40,000 miles is creeping closer and closer… onward!

Wrapping Up

Typically, the trips you see featured in The Open Road Ahead are meticulously researched and planned ahead of time by my wife and I. This weekend, it was a pleasure to simply show up and follow someone else’s well-planned lead! From scenic views of the Catskills, to touring a warship, to standing high above the Hudson River (gulp), the weekend was absolutely amazing. A huge shout-out to Ash for her planning ability… and congratulations to her for her car’s milestone!

Thanks, as always, for coming along on another journey down the open road ahead.

‘Til next time.

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