If you have been reading The Open Road Ahead for the past eight years, you will know that one of my favorite destinations is Adirondack State Park in New York. Enshrined in the state constitution in 1894, the Adirondacks represent over 6 million acres of protected wildness. It’s the largest state park in the lower forty-eight states of the US, and is the same size as the state of Vermont (via Wikipedia). It has also been a vacation destination for over 150 years, attracting visitors who wish to experience nature through countless outdoor activities.
Given that the Adirondacks are larger than some states, compiling a weekend trip itinerary for the entire park would be a fruitless undertaking. Instead, I am highlighting activities in the western section of the Adirondacks. Specifically, I am going to focus on a portion of the park stretching between the towns of Old Forge and Inlet, an eleven-mile span that runs beside several lakes of the Fulton Chain.
So come along, then, on another of our “The Open Road To…” destination guides. We’ll climb cool mountains, eat tasty food, visit the local wildlife, and take a dip in a lake.
Let’s begin:
The Open Road to Old Forge
Our weekend destination: Old Forge. Located about ninety minutes north of the city of Utica, Old Forge is one of the largest towns in the western Adirondacks.
Day One – Friday
Lodging
One of the last surviving 19th century hotels in the Adirondacks is the Woods Inn. Built in 1894, this rustic hotel is like stepping into a time machine. If you want a true Adirondack hotel, I can recommend nothing better than this spot.Situated along Fourth Lake in the town of Inlet, the hotel is worth the price of admission for the views alone. If you’re staying at the Woods Inn, do read the room descriptions carefully. While high speed internet is available to all guests, not every room has modern amenities such as a mini fridge or a television. Of course, with a view like this, who needs a TV?A less historic (but more affordable) option is the Water’s Edge Inn in Old Forge, NY. Open year round, the Water’s Edge is part of the Water Safari Resort.Although not as historic as the Woods Inn, the Water’s Edge offers its own scenic views of Old Forge Pond. It also offers modern amenities like an indoor pool, a sauna, and internet service.
Dinner
After a long day of traveling, nothing hits the spot like an order of tacos, and Archie’s Alley in Inlet offers some of the best Tex-Mex food to be found in the ADK.The menu at Archie’s Alley is small, but everything listed is excellent. If you stop by, try the Alley Tacos or the Baja Tacos. You’ll thank me later.If you’re in Old Forge, then Tony Harper’s Pizza and Clam Shack is a great place to grab dinner.Tony Harper’s offers an impressive array of pizzas, and gluten free crusts are available. The clams are tasty, and the wings are excellent (but the wings are not gluten-free). If you are in the mood for pizza and wings, another option for dinner is Screamen Eagle Pizza, located in Inlet. Both are great choices!After dinner, grab a drink (alcoholic or otherwise) at the Woods Inn Tavern and stroll down to the dock to watch the sun set behind the mountains. After this, head to bed… because you’ll be setting your alarm early the next day!
Day Two – Saturday
Go Up, Up, Up the Mountain Ahead
The next morning, start your day with a climb up a mountain! I suggest Bald Mountain, a two-mile round trip hike. Sign in at the trail register and then begin making your way up the well-marked trail. The earlier you arrive, the less busy the trails will be. I try to pull into the parking lot around sunrise and usually have the mountain to myself.You’ll gain over 400 feet of elevation in a little under a mile of hiking. At the summit you can climb a bit further to check out the view from atop the Rondaxe Fire Tower, one of twenty-seven remaining fire towers in the Adirondacks.Make sure to inspect the fire direction table, a vital tool in helping rangers keep an eye out for possible fires.In nearby Inlet, there are two other peaks of note. Rocky Mountain offers fantastic views from its summit, and is only a short, one-mile round trip hike. Beware, though, as you gain the same elevation as Bald Mountain in half the distance… be prepared to huff and puff as you ascend.Rocky Mountain shares a parking lot with the trailhead for Black Bear Mountain, a longer, five mile out-and-back hike. Black Bear offers two paths to the summit. The yellow trail provides an easy hike, and is more accessible to those who might not be able to handle a steeper climb. The blue trail (pictured) is much steeper and provides some more challenging climbing obstacles. My advice? Take blue trail up for maximum heart-pumping enjoyment, and cruise back down on yellow trail.The payoff? A beautiful view from atop Black Bear Mountain.Better yet, if you climb all three mountains you will have completed the Fulton Chain Trifecta. Finish the challenge, pay a nominal fee, and your name will be added to the roster (and you’ll receive a fun patch and a sticker to proudly share your accomplishment).
Breakfast
Now that you’ve worked up an appetite, it’s time for breakfast! Walt’s Diner in Old Forge is an Adirondack institution. During the summer come early if you want a seat – the later you arrive, the greater the chance you’ll be waiting for a table.Walt’s offers good food and friendly service.
Morning Activities
If you are not in the mood to climb a mountain but still want to experience nature, the area around Old Forge offers several excellent hiking trails of varying length and difficulty. Lace up your hiking boots, slather on some bug spray and sun screen, pack some water, and get going!One of my favorite trails is the one through Moss Lake. It is an easy 2.5-mile path that offers spectacular views of the lake.Another lovely way to pass a morning is by paddling a canoe across any of the numerous lakes in the region. Before you go, check out this helpful guide from the New York State Department of Environmental Conservation (DEC).Paddling is also an excellent way to see nature up close. Be respectful of the wildlife you encounter – loon nests should never be disturbed, deer should not be fed, and bears are best observed from a safe distance.
Lunch
One of my favorite lunch spots in Old Forge is Dough a Deer. This small cafe offers salads, sandwiches, grain bowls, and burritos, all made with locally sourced organic ingredients.My go-to is the Cobra Kai grain bowl: carrots, edamame, shredded red cabbage, sesame seeds, toasted sesame oil, and teriyaki sauce, all served over rice or quinoa. Dough a Deer primarily offers takeout , so you can have a healthy meal on your way to your next destination.
Afternoon Activities
Whether you want to stroll through the galleries, take an art class, or attend a live performance, the View Arts Center has something for everybody!Be sure to check out the rotating exhibitions in the VIew’s galleries. There are some amazing painters, sculptors, and photographers working in upstate New York!Feel like supporting local artists and crafters more directly? Be sure to check out one of the many arts & crafts vendor fairs that pop up during the warmer months. For instance, the Old Forge Festival of Arts and Crafts (pictured) is held one weekend each July.Last year at the Old Forge Festival of Arts and Crafts my wife found this beautiful piece of woodwork and gave it to me as a birthday gift. It now proudly hangs in our living room.If you’re in the mood for shopping and want to support local artists and vendors, you should definitely stop by Space!Various photographers, artists, crafters, furniture makers, and other vendors rent space within the building where they can sell directly to their customers. The indoor location means they can be open rain or shine.If you’d like an amazing view of the Adirondacks without hiking up a mountain, the McCauley Mountain Ski Area allows visitors to ride a chairlift to the summit during summer months. On a clear day, you can even see Mount Marcy, the highest mountain in New York.With my fear of heights, was I absolutely terrified during the chair lift ride? Yes. Was the ride worth enduring some terror for the amazing view at the top? Also yes.
Dinner
You can’t go wrong for Saturday night dinner if you visit the Eagle Bay House in the village of Eagle Bay. Located in the former Toboggan restaurant, the Eagle Bay House is best described as “upscale comfort food.”I have eaten at numerous restaurants in the Adirondacks, but the Eagle Bay House is my absolute favorite. There are other restaurants of note in the western Adirondacks – Seventh Lake House and Billy’s Restaurant both spring to mind – but for my money, Eagle Bay House is the best.
Saturday Night
While there are certainly plenty of things to do after dark near Old Forge (live music events and a historic movie theater both spring to mind), the best way to enjoy an evening in the ADK is in nature. Watch the sunset, and then gather around a bonfire to tell stories, spend time with friends and loved ones, and enjoy the star-filled sky.
Day Three – Sunday
Starting the Day
Start your day with a swim in an Adirondack lake! With water so clear that you can look right to the bottom, and gorgeous mountain views as far as the eye can see, it’s a great way to begin your last day in town!I’d highly recommend stopping for breakfast at the Front Door Diner, a veritable institution in Old Forge.Front Door Diner is equally as good as Walt’s, but has the added bonus of offering gluten-free options. At either location, you’ll get a tasty, affordable meal from a friendly wait staff.
Mid-Morning Activities
On your last morning, squeeze as much out of the Old Forge region as possible! Plenty of stores will be open for your shopping pleasure, and do make sure you pay a visit to Old Forge Hardware, one of the oldest continuously-used buildings in town. It has been in operation since 1900!Go for a drive! The Adirondacks offer numerous roads that have plenty of twists and turns for those who enjoy driving. Even at the speed limit, you’ll have a lot of fun. South Shore Road (pictured) is one of my favorite drives. If you are visiting the Adirondacks during leaf peeping season, a drive should be a mandatory part of your adventure!And if you are visiting during leaf-peeping season, make sure to also take a hike to enjoy nature in all its splendor.The Inlet Historical Society is definitely worth a visit as well! This small storefront museum does a great job of telling the history of life along the Fulton Chain of Lakes.Last, but not least, get some coffee to go from Blue Line Coffee House. Blue Line has two locations – one in Inlet that is open in the summer and one in Old Forge that is open year round. Some delicious coffee will comfort you as you depart.As you head home, enjoy the views among the mountains, and leave your windows down so you can soak in the last of the pine-scented air!
Wrapping Up
I hope you’ve enjoyed this tour of the western Adirondacks, the next in our continuing travel guide specials! If you have never visited before, the Adirondacks are definitely worth a trip. I have chosen to highlight one section of the park, but there is so much more to see and do within the Blue Line. And while I have focused on visiting during warmer months, anyone who has read this blog for a while will know that there is no bad time to ever visit the ADK!
Thanks for coming along on yet another adventure on the open road ahead.