While my parents did a great job of giving me a well-rounded upbringing in New Jersey, there are some activities that do not typically occur to residents of the Garden State. Mountain climbing, for instance. While there are some peaks in the northwest corner of the state, for most of us who grew up in NJ, we equate our home with sea shores, pine forests, and farm fields. Standing in front of a towering rock formation and exclaiming, “Hey, let’s climb that!” wasn’t a typical family adventure when I was a kid.
Sure, I’d been on mountains – twice I drove to the top of Mt. Washington in New Hampshire, after all – but the idea of walking to the top of one never crossed my mind. It wasn’t until I met my wife, who introduced me to the majesty of Adirondack State Park in New York, that the idea of struggling to the top of a mountain might be something I’d possibly enjoy. She encouraged me to climb Bald Mountain, a 2,350-foot peak outside the town of Old Forge. Heart pounding, gasping for air, sweating profusely, I made my way to the top one autumn morning. As I stood on the open rock face summit, surveying the surrounding landscape, I was hooked. After all, the highest point of New Jersey is just 1,800 feet above sea level (High Point State Park – which we visited several years ago). Consider, then, that the average lake in the Adirondacks sits at 1,500 feet!
Since that first ascent, I’ve climbed several mountains, each representing a personal achievement. Weather (and schedule) permitting, I try to incorporate a summit into my trips to the ADK. Over Memorial Day weekend, I added a new accomplishment to my list. I completed my first-ever mountain climbing challenge: the Fulton Chain Trifecta.
So come along, then, on another journey to upstate New York. We’ll start off with a warm-up hike filled with reptiles in New Jersey, before setting our sights once again on the Adirondacks. We’ll also celebrate a special dinner, relax in a historic spa, and enjoy some favorite (and some new) dining spots. Oh, and we’ll dodge bugs. Lots and lots of bugs.
Let’s begin:
The Fulton Chain Trifecta
The NJ Warm-Up
Over the past month, I had been working to get into better shape in preparation for a mountain climbing challenge in the Adirondacks. My wife discovered a new hiking spot we thought we would try – the D&R Canal. Built in the early 19th century, the Delaware & Raritan Canal was once a major transport route for goods from Philadelphia to New York, crossing much of central New Jersey. Seventy miles of the canal are preserved as a state park and walking trail, popular with bicyclists and hikers (via Wikipedia). The walking trail beside the canal was once the towpath, where livestock would pull barges loaded with goods down the canal.The canal was teeming with wildlife. We spotted several small snakes swimming through the water. I was able to photograph this one resting on a rock… until I looked closer and realized that it was resting on a much larger snake. “Snakes. Why did it have to be snakes?” The Northern Water Snake isn’t venomous, but if cornered it will lash out. I gave this guy (and his much larger relative) plenty of room.These Canadien geese eyed me warily as we walked past.The canal was also teeming with turtles! We lost count of the number of turtles who were sunning themselves on fallen trees and logs. Although most jumped into the water as soon as I raised my camera, this little guy seemed content to let me snap photo after photo.The rock was definitely this turtle’s happy place.Not every creature we saw was on the canal. This deer was peacefully eating as we walked through a wooded section of the trail. It raised its head just long enough for me to snap this photo before it went back to eating.To account for elevation changes along the canal, 14 locks once existed to allow barges to be raised or lowered when river heights changed. Lock 11 still exists to this day. After enjoying a few hours of hiking, my wife and I headed home. Our next major adventure would be a bit further from home.
Black Bear Mountain
Our trip would take us once again into Adirondack State Park in northern New York. Let’s go!Departing from work on Friday afternoon, my wife and I stopped in Saratoga Springs, where we would be spending the night at the Gideon-Putnam Hotel. We have both been working hard these past several months, and decided to pamper ourselves at a classy hotel.After checking into the hotel, our first stop was dinner at Taverna Novo, an Italian restaurant that is one of our favorite spots on the East Coast. Eagle-eyed readers might remember Taverna Novo from our first visit to Saratoga Springs several years ago.We started our meal with the Insalata Mista (mixed greens, tomato, ceci, gorgonzola, pancetta, and vinaigrette) and the Calamari e Gamberi Picante (calamari with shrimp and san marzano tomato). So good!Many of Taverna Novo’s entrees can be prepared gluten free. My wife dined on the Penne Al Fresco: gluten-free penne pasta with roasted tomatoes, olives, roasted garlic, artichokes, spinach, extra virgin olive oil, and white wine. I devoured the Chianti-Braised Ragu di Maiale: chianti-braised, shredded pork with rigatoni. How was our meal? Simply divine!Returning to the hotel after dinner, we spent a few minutes in the lobby learning more about the mineral spa baths that have made Saratoga Springs famous. Native Americans long thought that the mineral springs in the area had restorative properties. Numerous spa resorts developed in the area in the 19th century, and in the 1930s Saratoga Springs State Park was established (via Wikipedia).The next morning, we began our day with breakfast at Putnam’s, the Gideon-Putnam Hotel’s restaurant. I had made a reservation, which turned out to be entirely unnecessary: we had the whole restaurant to ourselves.While my wife had a tasty breakfast of eggs, roasted potatoes, and gluten-free toast, I definitely had the best entree of the morning: brioche French toast! It was delicious – two thumbs up! Fueled up, we then set off for our morning appointment of relaxation and pampering.We had appointments at the Roosevelt Baths & Spa, located in Saratoga Springs State Park, not far from the hotel. The spa is named after President Franklin D. Roosevelt, who helped to preserve the natural springs as a historic site.In many ways, Roosevelt Baths is a time capsule – little has changed about the building since it opened in the 1930s.My wife and I were scheduled for individual mineral baths and massages. The mineral water is cold when it comes out of the ground, and when mixed with warmer tap water, changes color to brown. It’s perfectly safe, but I’ll admit to a moment of pause before I entered the tub. I’m not someone accustomed to soaking in a bath or getting a massage, but afterward I felt so very, very relaxed. I would definitely do that again!Before heading up to the Adirondacks, we made one more stop in town: we filled up our water bottles with natural spring water from one of the town’s 21 public springs. It’s free – just show up with your water bottle and get a drink!On our drive north, we passed through the town of Warrensburg. We made a quick stop to take a glamour photo of Grace, my wife’s 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee, in front of this beautiful town mural.When we finally arrived at our dear relative’s house in the Adirondacks, I immediately went to take a photo of the nearby lake… and as soon as I snapped the shot, I ran back to the house. It’s black fly season in the ADK. If you haven’t had the pleasure of encountering these biting flies, allow me to make an introduction. Black flies are prevalent in northern locations near bodies of water. The flies will swarm during daylight hours, and the female flies will feed on the blood of birds, animals, and humans… especially in places where the skin is thinnest, like your ears, your neck, your hands, and your ankles. It’s a good time.The next morning, I was at the trailhead for Black Bear Mountain by 8:00 am and there were already several cars in the parking lot. If you want solitude on a mountain trail in the Adirondacks during the summer, plan to arrive before sunrise. Otherwise, be prepared to encounter crowds.The trail begins at the edge of the parking lot. Black Bear Mountain Trail is a 4.8-mile round trip up the mountain and back. The summit stands at 2,454 feet above sea level, with an almost 800-foot elevation gain during the hike. Let’s do this!My first stop was to sign in at the trail register. The log book helps the New York Department of Environmental Conservation monitor trail usage, and also helps park rangers keep tabs on hikers to make sure people make it up (and down) the mountain safely.No sooner had I signed in than the Adirondacks welcomed me back with a rocky, muddy trail. Don’t plan on clean shoes if you’re hiking in the ADK!About 3/4 of a mile into the hike, the trail to the Black Bear summit splits in half. Yellow trail (left) is a longer climb but offers a gentle ascent. Blue trail (right) is a steeper, rockier, more challenging approach. I decided to go up blue trail, and down yellow trail.Black Bear has a little bit of everything that makes for a good Adirondack hike, including the not-fully-stable log bridge over swampy, muddy terrain.One stretch of trail involves more technical climbing. The steepest section had a rope to aid the climb. After testing the rope once (or twice or three times), I used it to zip up the rocky terrain. It was a blast!Now this section definitely could have used another rope! Huffing and puffing, I carefully navigated my way upward.I thought I was nearing the top, and then a little piece of my soul died when I saw that the trail continued further onward. Ah, well… gotta keep walking!A welcome sight: a bare rock pathway leading toward the summit.I arrived at the top of the mountain hot, sweaty, and out of breath… but forgot all of it once I saw the view.Despite the hazy conditions, I had a good view of the lakes and forests nearby, and other mountains in the distance.With only a handful of people on the summit, I sat down on a quiet corner to gobble a CLIF energy bar and drink a good amount of water. The more I hike, the more I appreciate the importance of taking enough food and water with me.I opted for the gentler yellow trail on the return. The trail starts off with a walk down a rock slab – just pretend you’re on the balance beam in elementary school, and you’ll be fine.As opposed to how open and exposed the blue trail was, the much narrower yellow trail felt like the woods were embracing you. It made for a peaceful walk down the mountain. Even well-maintained trails can have their quirks – this wooden footbridge was an added challenge. Rest easy, dear readers… I didn’t fall off.Wait, what’s this? A flat, dirt trail with no roots, no rocks, and no climbing? I positively cruised down this section of the hike. With the end of the trail nearing, I began to dream about that donut from the Eagle Bay Donut Shop waiting for me at home. The Donut of Victory. That donut was going down, and I was going to savor every single bite.About two hours after I signed in, I proudly put a checkmark beside Black Bear in the trail registry, indicating I had safely signed out… hike complete!As promised… the Donut of Victory. After all, on hiking days calories don’t count, am I right?And what better way to recharge after a hike than with an iced Birch Latte from Blue Line Coffee House? As I drank it, I could almost hear the “power up” sound effect from Super Mario Bros.For dinner on Sunday night, we thought we’d try a new place: Archie’s Alley, a bar and restaurant in Inlet, NY, serving Tex-Mex cuisine.According to my Fitbit app, I hiked 5 miles on the trails, exercised for 160 minutes, and burned over 3,000 calories, so you better believe that I demolished this entire taco salad. My wife got a taco platter, and our relative also got a taco salad. The verdict? Thumbs up all around – we’d definitely go back!After a relaxing Memorial Day, we got ready to return home on Tuesday morning. I ran down to the lake for one last photo. Is the panorama oddly distorted? You bet. Hey, YOU try keeping your hands still while you’re being eaten alive by black flies and mosquitos. Ouch!On our way home, we made a quick, mandatory pit stop again at Blue Line Coffee House in Old Forge, NY.How do you fuel up for a drive from NY to NJ? With a dark roast coffee (left) and an almond milk cappuccino (right)!The Wigwam Tavern along NY-28 brings a smile to my face on our way to the Adirondacks, but seeing it on our return drive always brings a note of sadness, as it tells me that I’ve officially left Adirondack State Park.Halfway home, we stopped in the town of Beacon, NY, to eat lunch at Kitchen & Coffee, a cool cafe that serves all gluten-free and vegetarian food. My wife dined on the sweet potato burger, while I devoured this grilled cheese. That poor sandwich didn’t stand a chance!After a quick post-lunch walk around Beacon, we stopped for coffee at Big Mouth Coffee Roasters. I love how this old stove has been repurposed as a station for fixing your coffee.By mid-afternoon, we were finally home. Grace, my wife’s 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee, is creeping closer and closer to 100,000 miles. Onward!
The Fulton Chain Trifecta
In preparation for climbing Black Bear Mountain, I was researching the mountain to plan my hike. I learned that there is a hiking challenge for mountains in this section of Adirondack State Park. Black Bear, along with Rocky and Bald Mountains, form the Fulton Chain Trifecta. With Sunday’s hike, I officially completed all three mountains!
My first Adirondack Mountain was Bald Mountain, which included a knee-wobbling climb to the top of the Rondaxe Fire Tower. I have since returned to the top of Bald Mountain several times.A few years ago, I also made it to the top of Rocky Mountain for some spectacular late-autumn views.Fulton Chain Trifeta… complete! The Fulton Chain Trifecta has an official online register of people who have completed the hike, and for a nominal fee, you can get an honorary patch mailed to your home that celebrates the accomplishment. Yes, I sent in my information, and yes, that patch will be sewn onto my camera bag as soon as it arrives.
Wrapping Up
For a kid from New Jersey, one of the flattest states in the Union, climbing mountains in the Adirondacks has become a labor of love. I am still most definitely a beginner, but each time I hike, I learn more. I also have started taking advantage of lots of online resources, many of which are free, so I can be better educated and better prepared. For instance, the hiking app AllTrails is an invaluable tool on my phone. Spending time reading articles and reviewing printed maps of trails teaches me a lot about what I can expect during a hike. Finally, I make use of my work commute to learn more through podcasts. One podcast I would highly recommend is The 46 of 46 Podcast by James Appleton. He started the show when he climbed all 46 High Peaks in the Adirondacks (defined as the mountains that have at least 4,000 feet of elevation) in one summer season, but his show has since expanded to include lots of great information about hiking and mountain climbing. Each bit I learn makes the next hike even more enjoyable.
Thanks for coming along on yet another Adirondack adventure along the open road ahead!
Thanks for the kind words! One area I’m trying to learn to do better is to capture how steep some sections of the trail are. Often, my photos make it look flatter than it is in real life – guess I need to keep hiking and photographing! And thanks for reading!!
Looks like a great experience. The climb looks great and u should be proud of yourself for completing it. The food looks great also. Thanks for sharing!
I love your posts because we often seem to like the same places. The Adirondacks are incredible, even for this native New Englander. I think they’re terribly under appreciated, but perhaps that’s a good thing in some ways. I’ll never hike up a mountain, but it’s grand that you’re having these wonderful experiences. And finally, it seems we have a new place to try in Saratoga Springs. FYI Mrs. London’s is our favorite spot–a truly authentic French bakery.
I agree, the Adirondacks are under-appreciated, but it’s already super busy, especially in the summertime, so I don’t know how much more “appreciated” we need them to be! 😁
Thanks for reading – our relative who lives in the ADK swears by Mrs. London’s in Saratoga Springs, and every time we stop by, we try to bring her some of their lemon pound cake. So good!!
The Open Road Ahead 
The pictures along your hike were fantastic! It felt like I experienced it too (without the black flies and physical strain). Congratulations!
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Thanks for the kind words! One area I’m trying to learn to do better is to capture how steep some sections of the trail are. Often, my photos make it look flatter than it is in real life – guess I need to keep hiking and photographing! And thanks for reading!!
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Congrats! Physical fitness merit badge complete.
Snakes and a swarm of flies. I guess a little bit of Texas came your way.
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Ha! Yes, it seems that Texas came to the ADK and NJ! Thanks for checking it out, and the merit badge will be proudly on display once it arrives!!
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Looks like a great experience. The climb looks great and u should be proud of yourself for completing it. The food looks great also. Thanks for sharing!
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Thanks so much for reading – and the food was terrific, you would have loved it!!
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I love your posts because we often seem to like the same places. The Adirondacks are incredible, even for this native New Englander. I think they’re terribly under appreciated, but perhaps that’s a good thing in some ways. I’ll never hike up a mountain, but it’s grand that you’re having these wonderful experiences. And finally, it seems we have a new place to try in Saratoga Springs. FYI Mrs. London’s is our favorite spot–a truly authentic French bakery.
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I agree, the Adirondacks are under-appreciated, but it’s already super busy, especially in the summertime, so I don’t know how much more “appreciated” we need them to be! 😁
Thanks for reading – our relative who lives in the ADK swears by Mrs. London’s in Saratoga Springs, and every time we stop by, we try to bring her some of their lemon pound cake. So good!!
Thanks for reading!
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