Watkins Glen International. Opened in 1956, The Glen has seen its fair share of history. For twenty years, it hosted the United States Grand Prix of Formula One, motorsport’s preeminent racing series. It was the venue for numerous other series as well, including Can-Am, Trans-Am, NASCAR, and IndyCar. For any gear head (motor head, petrol head), it’s one of the shrines of American car racing. It’s a track associated with the names of racing elite: James Hunt, Niki Lauda, Jackie Stewart, Mario Andretti, Alan Jones, Jacky Ickx, and many more. For an ardent racing fan such as myself, Watkins Glen is automotive Valhalla.
So imagine my joy when my wife surprised me with an amazing birthday gift: a ticket to take my 2012 Honda Accord coupe onto the track and drive several laps at speed on this historic course. The day of my scheduled drive (my date with destiny!), I sat in the staging area, palms sweaty, heart racing, as the safety marshal directed us onto the track.
So come along, then, on the drive of all drives. Along the way, we’ll also stay in a historic train station, climb past 19 waterfalls, sail on a beautiful lake, sample some of upstate New York’s best wineries, eat delicious food, and have a wonderful time.
Let’s begin:
Day One – Friday
For this trip, “New York” would not mean our beloved Adirondacks, but instead, a trip to the Finger Lakes region of the state.After I returned home from work, we departed for our first destination: Scranton, Pennslyvania, a halfway point between our home and Watkins Glen.After two hours of mostly traffic-free driving, we arrived at our destination for the evening: The Radisson Lackawanna Station Hotel. Built in 1908, this stunning building operated as a passenger rail station until 1970. It lay abandoned for over a decade before it was converted into a hotel in the early 1980s (via Wikipedia).When the station was converted into a hotel, attempts were made to reuse as much of the historic interior as possible. From the fountain, to the stairs, the doors, the Tiffany skylights, and the tile mosaics, much of the station’s original brilliance has been preserved. After touring the hotel, it was time to head to bed – we had an early start the next day!
Day Two – Saturday
We arose early the next morning and went down to the hotel restaurant for breakfast. My wife dined on an omelette and I enjoyed a Belgian waffle. It was one of the fanciest breakfast settings in recent memory!Before checking out, we took some more time to explore the hotel, including examining the tile mosaics that line the walls of the lobby. I particularly liked this view of Niagara Falls. After packing up the car, we were off to our next destination.Although we were scheduled to arrive at the race track promptly at 11:00 am, we made time for a quick detour to Nay Aug Park in Scranton, to visit a treehouse!The Dave Wenzel Treehouse was designed to be fully handicapped accessible. From the accessible parking across the street, to the smooth boardwalk leading to the treehouse, to the excellent visibility offered within the structure, the treehouse is a sterling example of good design equalling an accessible space.The view from the treehouse is spectacular, and offers a view of the Nay Aug Gorge below. For someone with a wicked fear of heights, I found myself completely at ease in the treehouse, despite being 150 feet above the gorge.Nay Aug Park sits atop a large coal deposit. Despite this, it has never been the site of an active mine. However, in 1902, the Brooks Mine was constructed to provide the public with an educational tour of mining, as coal mining was a major industry in the Scranton area for much of the 19th and early 20th centuries.Near the mine is the “Pioneer,” a gravity railway car that operated between Hawley and Pittstown, PA from 1850 to 1884. Our curiosity satisfied, with climbed back into the Accord and set off for our main attraction: Watkins Glen!A little over an hour after departing Scranton, we crossed into New York, and made a quick stop at the Southern Tier New York Welcome Center. Obligatory “I Love New York” sign? Check.Ninety minutes (and one detour caused by a wrong turn) later, we arrived at Gate 2 of Watkins Glen International raceway!We lined up to participate in Drive the Glen. Twice daily during the summer season (at 12:00 pm and 5:00 pm), the general public can take their own cars around the racetrack. For $30, drivers get three laps around the course (RVs, motorcycles, rental cars, buses, and vans are not permitted on track).I’ll admit to feeling some nerves as we queued up in the staging area. While driving my car at speed around a Formula One race track sounds exciting, I had a moment of self-doubt… not about my trusty car, but instead about my own driving skills. I tried my best to swallow my nerves and soldier on.While waiting for our 12:00 pm start time, my wife and I wandered into the grandstands to watch amateur racers zooming around the track.The speed at which the drivers were tackling the track was impressive. I tried to take some mental notes as to how the cars were navigating the corners of the track.No matter how many races I’ve watched on TV, I was unprepared for the changes in elevation of the track – various corners featured inclines and declines. Television doesn’t show how steep race tracks can be!Before heading onto the track, the safety marshal called us together for a meeting. We went over protocols and procedures for the track, along with what to do in the event “of a wreck” (the marshal’s words). My excitement, and my anxiety, both rose.After a warm-up lap, we were off! As I drove around the track, I had several moments when I wanted to pinch myself… I was driving the same track as a legion of Formula One legends!!Channeling my inner-Max Verstappen and Lewis Hamilton, I braked late, I accelerated hard, and I kept the accelerator pressed to the floor.As we continued putting laps around the circuit, I felt my confidence growing, both in myself and in my car. Sadly, just as I was starting to find my groove, we had to stop – a car toward the front of the pack had an accident, and had hit the track barrier. Fortunately, the driver and his passenger were unharmed, but the car (a gorgeous, blue Honda S2000 convertible) was wrecked, requiring a lengthy cleanup.The safety marshal brought us back to the starting line, where we parked side-by-side. After the marshal assured us that no one was injured in the accident, we all relaxed and started to chat with each other, and take pictures of our cars!I had an absolute blast… especially since I had one of the oldest cars on the track, and I would assume one of the highest mileage ones as well!Did I mention… it was also one of the best-looking cars on the track?I snapped one last photo, and then my wife and I jumped back into the Accord and followed the safety marshal who escorted us back to the parking lot. I had a blast! If you enjoy fun driving experiences, I would highly recommend Drive the Glen – put it on your bucket list!
If you’d like a chance to “ride along” with my wife and I during a lap of Watkins Glen, I put together this short video of the drive:
After leaving the track, we headed to Red Newt Cellars, a winery on the shores of Seneca Lake, about a half hour north of Watkins Glen. We sampled the delicious wine, and dined on a light lunch of hummus, salad, and sandwiches. Red Newt came on the recommendation of good friends, and we are glad we went!After Red Newt, we spent some time wandering through downtown Watkins Glen before picking up takeout on the way back to our motel. We tried the 3812 Bistro – I devoured an order of fish tacos while my wife enjoyed a chicken sandwich on a gluten-free bun. How good was the meal? We would eat at 3812 two more times before the end of the weekend!
Day Three – Sunday
Sunday morning, we set our eyes on a hike through Watkins Glen State Park. We noticed that by midday the park is usually crawling with tourists, so we arrived at 7:30 am and encountered only a few other visitors.A gorge cuts through the center of the park, the remnant of a stream that was deepened during the Ice Age. A 1.5-mile trail runs beside the gorge, showcasing 19 waterfalls, and involves climbing 832 stone steps (via Wikipedia).The views along the Gorge Trail were breathtaking.One of the most popular spots on the trail is Rainbow Falls. It looked like something from a fantasy film like Lord of the Rings.A word of safety about the trails: pack accordingly. You will get wet, as several waterfalls drip onto the trail. Also, the stone steps have been worn smooth by years of visitors and water erosion, so proper footwear is a must: leave the flip flops, Birkenstocks, loafers, high heels, and platform shoes at home.On the return leg, we opted for the North Rim Trail, a path along the northern end of the park, high above the gorge. Several lookout points exist, but none were as dramatic as the suspension bridge…With my fear of heights fully active, I stepped out onto the bridge and snapped this photo. After what felt like an eternity (in reality, it was probably 30 seconds), my wife had taken in all the views she wanted, and we headed back to the trail. Phew!The only downside of the North Rim Trail? A seemingly never-ending staircase that kept going down, and down, and down.Once we finally arrived back at the entrance, I spotted this model of the park – you can see how deep the gorge is cut into the landscape! We rested for a few minutes and then set off in search of coffee!The first coffee shop we tried to visit was closed, so we made our way across town to Babes & Buds, a small, independent coffee shop. Oatmilk latte for me (pictured) and almond milk latte for my wife… it hit the spot!As we ambled through town with our coffee, we noticed several markers commemorating Watkins Glen’s role in motorsports history. This wreath marks the location of the start/finish line for the original Watkins Glen racetrack, which ran on the streets of the town (!), before Watkins Glen International opened in 1956.Bricks along the sidewalk commemorate past winners of the US Grand Prix. I thought it fitting that Niki Lauda and James Hunt, whose 1976 championship battle is depicted in the 2013 movie Rush, should be beside each other. Contrary to the depiction in the film, the two were actually friends off the track.By midday we were getting hungry, so we set off to the 3812 Bistro for lunch. Usually when we travel, we attempt to sample a variety of restaurants, but 3812 was so good that we decided to go back.While my wife thoroughly enjoyed her Cuban sandwich (on a gluten free bun), I positively devoured a pair of steak tacos and a side of homemade mac and cheese… because on hiking days, calories don’t count, am I right?After lunch we headed north, following along the banks of Seneca Lake. The views were simply spectacular.Our destination was Red Tail Ridge Winery in Penn Yan, NY. We discovered Red Tail Ridge’s excellent wines at a local wine shop in the Adirondacks, so we were excited to visit their vineyard. The winery just opened this new tasting room – tres chic!So much wine to choose from! We indulged in a glass of chardonnay before heading off to our next stop…We booked a late afternoon cruise aboard the schooner True Love. Built in 1925, this sailing ship spent much of her career navigating the waters of the Caribbean and Atlantic, before finding a permanent home in more recent years on Seneca Lake.When we boarded, the other passengers rushed to seats on the front of the boat. We hung back and got the last available seats at the back… next to the captain and the crew. Joined by only one other passenger, we had a lovely afternoon hanging out with the captain and crew. They told us about the history of the ship, kept us well-supplied with beverages, shared some tall tales (including the story of “Seneca Sally”), and made sure we had a thoroughly enjoyable trip.It was cool to watch the crew work the sails, and the bonus of our seats was the captain explaining the purpose of each sail to us.With temperatures in the 80s and a blue sky, lots of people were taking advantage of the cooler temperatures on the lake!The Finger Lakes were carved by the retreat of glaciers during numerous ice ages, leaving behind a dramatic shoreline, as if a giant excavator simply scooped out all the dirt and rocks to create the lake.Really not a bad way to spend a summer afternoon!Dinner was takeout from Thai Elephants in Watkins Glen. We shared spring rolls, Thai fried rice, and pork pad see ew. It was delicious, and a perfect end to the day.
Day Four – Labor Day Monday
The next morning, we were up early to begin preparing for the long drive home. Our reward? Seeing the sunrise over Seneca Lake.We stayed at the aptly-named Gorgeous View Motel. Recently renovated, it offered comfortable, clean rooms, with a fantastic view of the lake and surrounding countryside. It was affordable, especially compared to some of the more exorbitant rates being offered by other establishments. If you are just looking for a simple, clean, safe place to spend a night in Watkins Glen, I recommend it.After packing up the car, we went back yet again to the 3812 Bistro for breakfast. We owed it to you, dear readers, to try breakfast, lunch, and dinner at this great restaurant! We do it all for you!!While my wife enjoyed a sensible vegetable omelette, I chowed down on one of the stranger breakfast foods I’ve ever tried: an egg and bacon sandwich on a Belgian waffle. It was delicious and (shockingly) light. We hereby give 3812 Bistro a resounding two thumbs up from The Open Road Ahead!On the way home, we stopped in Elmira, New York, to see a tiny but notable building. Located at Elmira College, the Mark Twain Study is a small octagonal building where Twain wrote books such as TheAdventures of Tom Sawyer and Adventures of Huckleberry Finn while spending his summers in upstate New York.The Study was once located on a nearby farm, before being moved to Elmira College in the 1950s. Although the Study was closed when we visited, it is open to visitors during select hours in the summertime. We’ll definitely have to come back to check it out!We made a quick pitstop for some iced coffees at Batch Coffee in Binghamton, New York. Bonus fact? The coffee shop carries a large array of gluten-free baked goods. We indulged.If abandoned buildings interest you, our last stop before home was one of the more memorable: the remains of the New York State Inebriate Asylum in Binghamton, NY.Founded in 1864, the asylum was the first hospital in the nation dedicated to treating alcoholism as a disease. By 1879, it had been converted into a mental health hospital, before falling into disuse in the 1990s. It currently sits abandoned, but Binghamton University plans to rehabilitate the structure and use it once again.The Asylum Bell was once housed in one of the eight towers that stood atop the building (they were all removed as they were structurally unsound). The bell regulated life within the asylum. Patients’ activities were signaled by the tolling of the bell. If this building were ever converted into a museum, it would tell a fascinating story about a little-known effort in the 19th century to reconceptualize alcoholism and its treatment.After several hours of fighting traffic in New York and Pennsylvania, we were finally back in New Jersey, and on the way home. Once we crossed into the Garden State, traffic was mercifully non-existent, and we flew the rest of the way to our neighborhood.After an amazing weekend, we pulled the Accord into the garage. The 226,000 mile mark will forever be remembered as part of the trip when my little coupe drove on a Formula One track! Onward!!
Wrapping Up
As birthday weekends go, this was one of the most memorable. From sailing on a clear blue lake, to hiking through a stunningly beautiful gorge, to eating great food, to sleeping in a historic railroad station, to driving ON AN ACTUAL FORMULA ONE RACING TRACK, this was an amazing trip, one that I will think back upon often.
Thanks, as always, for coming along on yet another adventure down the open road ahead.
Agreed – Rainbow Falls was stunningly beautiful, as was the rest of the park. Glad you enjoyed the video – my videographer did an excellent job keeping holding the camera still during filming. Thanks for reading!!
Wow-looks like a fun filled trip! That is so cool that you got to drive on the racetrack. Your wife is always so thoughtful with your birthday gifts. And the food looked delicious as well!
The Open Road Ahead 
The views in the park of the gorge and Rainbow Falls are gorgeous.
What an awesome experience driving your car on the track. I enjoyed seeing it in the video too.
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Agreed – Rainbow Falls was stunningly beautiful, as was the rest of the park. Glad you enjoyed the video – my videographer did an excellent job keeping holding the camera still during filming. Thanks for reading!!
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Wow-looks like a fun filled trip! That is so cool that you got to drive on the racetrack. Your wife is always so thoughtful with your birthday gifts. And the food looked delicious as well!
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Thanks for reading – it was an amazing trip! I was also pleasantly surprised with how easy it was to find good gluten free options too!!
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I loved the falls and the whole trip was amazing. You will never forget this birthday!!
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So glad you enjoyed the post – the trip was amazing!!
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