As a kid, I remember coloring in the Great Lakes on a map of the US during geography lessons in elementary school. I remember learning facts about Lake Superior – it’s the largest freshwater lake in the world by surface area. It is the westernmost of the five Great Lakes. It’s 350 miles long, 160 miles wide, and has a maximum depth of over 1,300 feet. Lake Superior is part of a vital shipping route, transporting grains, ores, and products from the Midwest to the Atlantic Ocean.
However, being a kid from New Jersey, my mental representation of a “lake” is something far smaller than what I have witnessed when I stood on the shores of Lake Erie and Lake Michigan. Even those lakes, however, paled in comparison to my first view of Lake Superior. My wife and I were recently visiting family and friends in Wisconsin, and we decided to take an overnight trip to northern Minnesota. Standing on a bluff beside a historic lighthouse, I looked out at water that stretched into the horizon.
So come along, then, on a journey to the North Shore region of Minnesota. Along the way we’ll see historic railroad trains, visit a century-old lighthouse, see the humble building where a corporation got its start, eat great food, and witness an amazing atmospheric event.
Let’s begin:
The North Shore
Visiting Wisconsin
On a Thursday morning in mid-May, my wife and I left the Acura and the Jeep at home and boarded a flight to Minneapolis to spend time with family and friends.We would be spending most of our time around the town of Hudson, Wisconsin. One of my first stops was to Birkmose Park in Hudson, where the bluffs offer a spectacular view of the St. Croix River.We had a lovely Mother’s Day dinner at Pier 500 in Hudson. In operation since 2005, Pier 500 offers an expansive menu that also includes many gluten-free items.After sharing delicious appetizers of walleye cakes and Szechuan-style green beans, I enjoyed the Yum Yum Steak Bowl – marinated top sirloin, almond rice, baby bok choy, red bell peppers, a sunny side up egg, Thai chili paste, and “yum yum” sauce. How was it? Yummy!My wife, meanwhile, enjoyed the wood-fired rotisserie chicken, served with green beans and mashed potatoes. The rest of our family enjoyed the meatloaf, the chargrilled top sirloin, and the Californian burger. All of our meals were excellent. We also had dessert (key lime pie, cocoa chocolate cake, and a gluten-free berries crisp). There should be photos of the desserts too, but… well…we may have eaten them too fast.Owing to a solar storm, much of the northern hemisphere was treated to a showing of the aurora borealis, or the northern lights. Wisconsin was prime viewing territory for the event.When the sun ejects electrified gases from its corona, it is known as a solar storm. The particles from the sun make their way to Earth, where they interact with the gases in our atmosphere, and result in brilliant light shows (via NASA).There was no need to travel to an exotic location to see the northern lights – this was the view from our relative’s front porch! Between the solar eclipse last month and the northern lights, Mother Nature has given us some amazing views recently!We gathered around our relative’s newly installed fire table in their backyard and enjoyed the beautiful evening skies. We spent a lovely week with our relatives and friends… but my wife and I got the itch to do some traveling, and quickly threw together plans for an overnight trip northward.
The North Shore
Our North Shore Adventure: a journey up to the city of Duluth, and then a further exploration up the coast to a historic lighthouse.We set off on a gorgeous morning under blue skies. Our relatives lent us their 2014 Dodge Journey for the drive. Barely five miles from the house we hit a road that was being repaved, so our clean Dodge was quickly covered with gravel, dirt, and mud. We owed our relatives a car wash!After about an hour, we crossed the St. Croix River into Minnesota. If you squint, you can see what has to be one of the smallest state line signs I’ve ever seen.Our first stop was to lunch at The Drive In Restaurantin the town of Taylors Falls, Minnesota! In business since 1956, The Drive In is famed for its burgers, homemade root beer, and car service!Rather than being served in our car, we opted to eat on the patio. I ordered the All American Burger (a burger with thousand island dressing, cheese, lettuce, pickle, and onion), while my wife enjoyed a California burger (burger with lettuce, tomato and mayo) on a gluten-free bun. The fries were amazing, the pickle was fresh, and the highlight was definitely the homemade root beer! In addition, our server was friendly and efficient, and prices were reasonable. The Drive In gets an Open Road Ahead rating of two thumbs up!After lunch, we followed a relative’s recommendation to stretch our legs and explore nearby Interstate Park. Interstate is comprised of two adjacent state parks that straddle the St. Croix River – one half in Minnesota and the other in Wisconsin. The park features unique geology: the entire region was once covered by the Glacial St. Croix River, which channeled water from melting glaciers at the end of the last ice age.The entire park once sat beneath hundreds of feet of rushing water. Whirpools within the river carved out over 400 glacial potholes in the riverbed, such as the one here.Although over 400 potholes are known to exist, natural landfill may have covered over many more. One of the signs in the park said to listen to your footsteps – at points the ground might sound hollow. In this image, I’m standing on ground that echoed when I stepped on it!Park workers began removing fill from this pothole, and did not stop until they reached the bottom, over 60 feet down! While this is the deepest known pothole in the world, it is possible that other holes in the park may go even deeper. After taking in our fill of this natural wonder, we got back in the Dodge and headed north.A little while later, we stopped to gas up the car and ourselves! While the Dodge drank some 87 unleaded, we enjoyed some iced lattes from Caribou Coffee!Our next stop was in the town of Cloquet, Minnesota, where we stopped by a gas station designed by noted American architect Frank Lloyd Wright. Check out the observation deck above the office – the deck allowed for gas station attendants to watch for approaching cars while staying warm inside the building.The only service station designed by Wright, he penned the initial plan in 1927 but it was not built until 1958. The station still is in full operation, owned by the grandson of its original owner (via Atlas Obscura).Before leaving Cloquet, we stopped at Fauley Park where my wife spotted the Duluth & Northeaster Railroad #16 steam engine. Fauley Park is named after Lawrence Fauley, the Cloquet train station master who, during the devastating fire of October 10, 1918, held trains in the station so they could be used to evacuate the town’s residents (via rgusrail).Behind the locomotive is Duluth & Northeastern Railroad Caboose #7. Despite being in the elements, both the locomotive and the caboose are in excellent shape. After a few minutes of enjoying the park, we were back on the road!Although we had hotel reservations to spend the night in Duluth, we drove past the city and continued north to the town of Two Harbors. At the corner of 6th Street and 2nd Avenue sits a humble two-story office building that was the original headquarters of the Minnesota Mining and Manufacturing Company – known to us today at 3M. Although founded as a mining company, 3M is more commonly known today for Post-It notes, Scotchguard fabric protectant, Scotch tape, Meguiars car care products, sandpapers, and numerous other products in health care, office supplies, and building supplies. While 3M’s headquarters is now located in Maplewood, Minnesota, this building has been preserved as the company museum.Along the shores of Lake Superior is the Depot Museum, housed in what was once the Two Harbors Station. Built in 1907, the depot allowed for train passengers and cargo to switch between different train lines. Since 1961, it’s been home to the Lake County Historical Society Depot Museum (via Wikipedia).Outside the Depost Museum is this small steam engine, named the 3 Spot. Built in 1883, it was used by the Duluth & iron Range Railroad to help lay track between Lake Vermillion and Two Harbors. The cost? $9,750 – $320,000 in 2004 dollars (via Lake County Historical Society).Across the plaza from the depot is this beast: the Duluth, Missabe and Iron Range Yellowstone Mallet #229. One of the largest steam locomotives ever built, #229 was completed in 1943. Capable of a top speed of 45 miles per hour, producing over 6,000 horsepower, and weighing over a million pounds, these behemoths could haul millions of tons of freight (via Wikipedia).Nearby is the Two Harbors Lighthouse. Built in 1892, it’s the oldest working lighthouse in Minnesota. It is now operated by the Lake County Historical Society and the US Coast Guard. Fancy spending a night at a lighthouse? Since 1999, it has also operated as a bed and breakfast (via Lake County Historical Society).We continued our drive north, taking Highway 61, which runs from Wyoming, Minnesota to New Orleans, Louisiana. Known as the “Blues Highway” for its role in the development of blues music, the road was commemorated by Bob Dylan in his song “Highway 61 Revisited.” We may have listened to it once, or twice, or three times, as we drove.An hour north of Duluth, we arrived at our destination: Split Rock Lighthouse.After paying our entry fee at the visitor center, we made our way to Split Rock Lighthouse, considered one of the most scenic lighthouses in the United States.The lighthouse stands on a cliff 133 feet above the lake. Split Rock plays a critical role in maritime safety – over 350 shipwrecks have occurred on Lake Superior, many of them in the waters of Minnesota on the North Shore region. The lighthouse was built in 1910 following a horrendous storm in 1905 that caused no fewer than 29 ships to sink (via Wikipedia).Stairs. Why did it have to be stairs? The Lighthouse was open to explore, and the museum guide on duty asked if I’d like to climb to the top and see the light and lens up close. “Sure,” I answered, swallowing my fear of heights.I have climbed several lighthouses, but this was the closest I have ever been to a Fresnel lens. It was definitely worth the climb!Making our way back to the visitor center, we asked one of the employees for the most scenic spot to take a photo of the lighthouse. She recommended a short hiking trail – a walk of less than a half mile would put us on the coast with a spectacular view of Split Rock.Along the way, we discovered an abandoned tramway station. Originally, the lighthouse was supplied by boat, and the tramway was designed to bring cargo and passengers up from the shore. When Highway 61 was extended to reach Split Rock, the tramway was decommissioned in 1934 as supplies could now be shipped in by truck (via Minnesota Historical Society).The museum employee wasn’t wrong – the view was spectacular!It’s easy to see why Split Rock is often on lists of most scenic lighthouses in the United States, such as when Country Living magazine named it to its list of the 35 Most Beautiful Lighthouses in America. Fun fact: Split Rock even made an appearance in the 2013 film version of The Great Gatsby.As clouds rolled in and it got closer to dinner time, we began our return trip to Duluth. Along the way, we made a quick detour to a scenic pullout so the Dodge could get its mandatory glamour shot!One of the highlights on the drive along the coast were a pair of tunnels carved into the rocky hillsides. It made for a dramatic view.An hour later we arrived in the city of Duluth, crossing under the iconic lift bridge. More on that in a minute!On a relative’s recommendation, we skipped the chain hotels and stayed at the Park Point Marina Inn. Affordable, clean, and filled with amenities, it was a great choice, and cheaper than many of the other nearby hotels.The view from our hotel room wasn’t too shabby, either.Perhaps the most iconic feature of the Duluth Harbor is the Aerial Lift Bridge. The bridge allows traffic to cross from Duluth to the neighborhood of Minnesota Point. Built in 1905, it still operates on a daily basis (via Wikipedia).A series of lighthouses and other navigation aids sit at the entrance to the Duluth Canal. Over 800 ships a year use the Duluth harbor, carrying freight to and from this major port on Lake Superior.Dinner was at Lake Avenue Restaurant and Bar in the downtown district of Duluth. Lake Avenue offers a number of gluten-free and dairy-free items on its menu, and has excellent reviews.My wife ordered the gluten-free “fish and chips,” which comes with black cod, harissa fingerling potatoes, malt vinegar, lemon, capers, and onion. It was delicious!My entree, the salmon roll on milk bread, was very tasty, but the star of the show was the coleslaw – easily the best coleslaw I have ever (EVER!) eaten. Filled up and happy, we headed back to our hotel to spend a rainy evening relaxing before our return drive the next day.The next morning, we enjoyed a free hotel breakfast. I have low expectations for hotel breakfasts, but this one was pretty good! Even better was the view – our table looked out onto Duluth Harbor.Owing to a steady, heavy rain, my wife and I had to scrub some of our outdoor plans for the morning. Instead, we found ourselves at the highly rated Lake Superior Railroad Museum! It is housed in the former Duluth Union Depot, a major railroad station that was built in 1892.After paying our admission fee, we spent the morning exploring the surprisingly large and varied collection of historic railroad equipment. Number 1 Minnetonka (pictured), nicknamed Old Betsy, was built in 1870. It served in railroad construction and logging duty before being eventually abandoned in the woods. It was restored, and is now on loan to the museum.One thing is certain in Minnesota: snow. This Northern Pacific Wedge Snowplow was built in the early 1900s. Pushed by 2-3 locomotives, this rolling blade was designed to clear the tracks of small to moderate snow accumulation. Too deep of snow drifts, however, had the potential to cause derailments. For deeper snow, you needed……the Northern Pacific No. 2 steam powered rotary snow plow! Built in 1887, this plow would use a steam engine-powered blade to blow snow clear of the tracks. It required another locomotive to push it, but it was capable of handling snowfall of almost any depth. #2 is the oldest surviving such plow in the world.The centerpiece of the museum is the Duluth, Missabe, and Iron Range #227. Constructed during World War II, this steam engine produced over 6,000 horsepower, and would pull freight cars filled with ore and minerals from the mines of northern Minnesota down to Duluth. One interesting fact I learned from the museum: the amount of coal this train burned in one hour would be enough to heat a coal furnace in a family home for two winters.One of the most interesting features? #227 is articulated – the center four wheels will pivot to help the massive train handle curves in the tracks. See all the grease? With the push of a button, you can make the wheels pivot while standing mere feet away in the museum.The cab of #227 was open to the public. I was amazed at the complexity of the controls. It made me wonder how long it took to learn how to operate the engine safely.Even though they are obsolete, I have always found the caboose to be part of the allure of railroad travel. These small cars served a dual function: allowing the crew to monitor the condition of the train, and also providing living quarters for them. The Duluth, Missabe, and Iron Range #12 was built in 1893.More train equipment is outside the museum. The Minnesota Steel Company #7 is a “tank” engine, so named for the water tank that sits atop the steam engine. Even most people who are not railroad aficionados have heard of this type of steam engine before, owing to the children’s TV (and book) character Thomas the Tank Engine.Another steam engine parked outside is a movie star! Duluth and Northern Minnesota No. 14 was built in 1915 and hauled lumber to sawmills in Duluth for most of its career, until finding a second life where it still operates, pulling passenger cars on the North Shore Scenic Railroad. It also starred in the 1994 Disney Movie Iron Will.One of the coolest features of the museum were the early 20th century storefronts, recreating life a century ago at major railroad stations such as the Duluth Union Depot.My wife spotted this unexpected display! It’s an ad for Northlandz, the model train museum in Flemington, NJ, that I have visited several times. By car, Northlandz is 1,240 miles from Duluth… I’d love to know the story of how this display stand ended up in Minnesota!The reality of railroad travel is that no matter how careful its operators, the potential for an accident or a derailment exists. Railroad companies have long sought ways to get their trains back onto the tracks when this happens: enter the Northern Pacific steam powered wrecker #38. Built in 1913, this beast was designed to lift cars and engines back onto the tracks.I appreciated how many train cars were open for the public to enter. This railway post office was designed to be a fully functioning mobile mail delivery service.One of the coolest exhibits was the Dining and Fine China Car, showcasing the serving plates and utensils used in dining cars of yesteryear.The displays showcased the plates, glasses, silverware, and serving items for numerous railroad lines. My favorite was the “Adobe” line from the Santa Fe Railroad.This was easily my wife’s favorite exhibit of the museum, and I also found it fascinating. I wish I had a time machine and could travel on a long distance railroad journey back in the 1930s!Before leaving, we checked out a small piece of East Coast history! The St. Paul and Pacific “William Crooks” was the first steam engine to run in Minnesota. It was built in 1861 in Paterson, New Jersey!After a fun morning, we began our drive back to Wisconsin… slowly. While there was little traffic, heavy rain and thick fog meant that we took our time until we emerged from the bad weather about an hour south of Duluth.Before reaching our relatives’ home, we had one more stop on our itinerary… Moose Lake State Park.About a year ago, my wife and I discovered a video series on YouTube called “Minnesota Historia.” Produced by PBS North, a station based in Duluth that serves upper Minnesota and Wisconsin, “Minnesota Historia” is a series of video shorts that examines the quirkier side of Minnesota history. One segment is on the agate, a colorful stone produced by lava mixing with quartz.Moose Lake is called the “agate capital of the world,” and a museum in the visitor center is dedicated to these colorful stones. Minnesota Historia highlighted the Moose Lake Visitor Center as a “must see” stop, so we made a quick exit from the highway to check it out. Our curiosity satisfied, we got back in the Dodge and headed home.28 hours after leaving, we pulled back into our relatives’ driveway. The Dodge was a comfortable, fuel efficient, trusty companion on our journey.A few days later, we returned home to New Jersey. It was a fun-filled, enjoyable time with our relatives and friends in the Midwest, and I can’t wait to go back! After a long trip, though, it felt good to get back in the TLX and settle into my regular driver’s seat. Onward!
Wrapping Up
We spent a wonderful week in the Midwest, and I fell in love with the North Shore region of Minnesota. From the scenic views, to the cool sites, to some amazing eateries, the region has a lot for tourists to experience. Split Rock Lighthouse is open daily from 10:00 am – 6:00 pm. Admission is $15 for adults, $12 for seniors, active duty military personnel, veterans, and college students, $8 for children ages 5-17 (children 4 and younger can enter for free). The Lake Superior Railroad Museum is open daily from 10:00 am – 5:00 pm, and tickets are $14 for adults, $7 for children ages 3-13, and children 2 and younger can enter for free (there is a $1 discount for active duty military and veterans). If you are visiting the Duluth area, both of these are definitely worth a stop!
Thanks for coming along on this Midwestern journey down the open road ahead!
Looks like it was a great trip with so many fun landmarks. Split Rock Lighthouse looked really cool and you took some great photos. I can understand why it is listed as one of the most scenic lighthouses in the country. I definitely need to check out the Great Lakes. It looked more like you were at the ocean shore! Also, I had to laugh at seeing the New Jersey sign at the train museum. That was definitely unexpected.
I appreciate the kind words about the photos – I had a fantastic time taking those shots! I still haven’t wrapped my head around the size of the Great Lakes – they really are more like inland seas than they are “lakes.”
Wonderful pictures! Next time we go up to Minneapolis, I’ll try to convince the husband to make a trek up that way. I’m a sucker for steam engines, and I really want to stay in a lighthouse B&B. My Grandma and Dad used to talk about how fancy the dining was on the train; too bad they don’t have that experience available anymore…that I know of at least.
Glad you enjoyed the post! This was my first trip to Duluth (and beyond) – and I really enjoyed the trip. You should definitely make a detour to the north shore if you have the time. Thanks for reading!!
The Open Road Ahead 
Looks like it was a great trip with so many fun landmarks. Split Rock Lighthouse looked really cool and you took some great photos. I can understand why it is listed as one of the most scenic lighthouses in the country. I definitely need to check out the Great Lakes. It looked more like you were at the ocean shore! Also, I had to laugh at seeing the New Jersey sign at the train museum. That was definitely unexpected.
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I appreciate the kind words about the photos – I had a fantastic time taking those shots! I still haven’t wrapped my head around the size of the Great Lakes – they really are more like inland seas than they are “lakes.”
Thanks for reading!!
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Lots of great pics and info as always, but my favorite pictures were the ones from the beach looking up at Split Rock Lighthouse. Those are amazing.
Interesting to see a Northlandz ad there.
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Thanks for the kind words – and as happy as I was with how the lighthouse photos came out, it was even cooler in real life!! Thanks for reading!
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Wonderful pictures! Next time we go up to Minneapolis, I’ll try to convince the husband to make a trek up that way. I’m a sucker for steam engines, and I really want to stay in a lighthouse B&B. My Grandma and Dad used to talk about how fancy the dining was on the train; too bad they don’t have that experience available anymore…that I know of at least.
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Glad you enjoyed the post! This was my first trip to Duluth (and beyond) – and I really enjoyed the trip. You should definitely make a detour to the north shore if you have the time. Thanks for reading!!
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